A further UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Amazon basin for us: The Parque Nacional del Manú. Located east of Cusco Manú is established in 1973 and extended in 2002 to a biosphere reserve. It is divided in four areas: the restricted use zone (with pristine forests and native communities, access is granted to researchers only); the reserved zone (for recreation and research); the recuperation zone (for the recovery of disturbed areas) and the cultural zone (for human settlement and most activities including nature tourism).
We visit the cultural zone of the Manu National Park (white, right lower corner on the map)
At 6 am in the morning we are collected at our hotel by a 12 seats van. The team consists of a driver (Sebastian), a cook (Luis) and a local guide (Moyo).
A Garden Cafés for breakfast in Paucartambo
Belonging to the guests there are a British couple (bankers from London, 31 years old), three Californians in their early twenties (two are on the way with motorbikes, without driving license and motorbike experience, should join us later on) and two of us.
Paucartambo
Entrance to Manu National Park in Tres cruces
The mountain road fitting just about two vans
Some waterfalls are simply crossed by the road: the water flows over the tarmac further downhill
Dense greenery. Landslide in the past
Passion fruit blossoms
First meal on the road side, always three courses followed by tea and coffee
The monkeys on trees of the road side. Moyo brings them bananas, so they would return for the tourists
Amazon Pona Lodge in 650m N.N., our first night in the forest
The Amazon Pona Lodge is a piece of land with several log cabins, a kitchen and a larger common room respectively dining room (corrugated iron huts). Two double bedrooms under one roof. Simple wooden beds with mosquito net, attached shower and toilette.
According to Moyo the Amazon Pona Lodge was the accomodation for a German researcher team. When they finished, the site was sold to his company.
A village on the way to Atalaya boat landing stage
After evening meal there is a night walk up and down the terrain over the creeks in the surrounding.
On the way to school
Everyone has his own torch. Welly boots are provided by the travel company for the four days excursion. The path is partially muddy and slippery because it has rained slightly the last few days. We have seen only few harmless spiders (the biggest about the size of a palm with its legs) and frogs (the smallest = 5mm).
A through road
We all go early to bed. There is no other entertainment apart from reading book under the mosquito net with a torch. Nice memory of the children´s days. Thunder and torrential rain fall in the night onto the corrugated iron roof.
Hummingbirds
Day 2: Breakfast at 6:30 am. Cold shower and packing all the belongings back into the backpack before. Further drive to the boat landing stage of Atalaya on Rio Madre de Dios.
Dense greenery up to the lake downhill
A short visit to a hummingbird breeding station on the way, located above a small lake.
A raft to explore the lake
The raft with passengers
Arrived in Atalaya we change into a long 8 seats boat powered by a Yamaha outboard engine which bring us to the next quarter downstream on the other side of the river.
Atalaya on Madre de Dios river
Atalaya, cloudy and humid
The river is wide with rapid current.
Rio Madre de Dios
Our beds in Harpy Eagle Lodge
The Harpy Eagle Lodge is sparsely furnished, worse than the Amazon Pona Lodge. Two two-storey wooden barracks form the accomodations, each room has two beds. The toilette and shower has only a curtain, no door. Cold shower is a matter of course.
Jack fruit tree in the garden
A bigger corrugated iron hut as a dining room, a smaller one as a kitchen. Orange and jack fruit in the garden. Not a single chair outdoor.
Flowers in the garden
Another walk through the forest before lunch. Up and down the hills. Muddy and slippery. Many awaited animals can not be sighted.
Rich and delicious meals: muy rico!
Therefor the meals are always excellent! Luis can even create the national dishes for vegetarians: Ceviche original with fish and with mushroom for vegetarian, lomo saltado original with beef and with soya meat for vegetarian. Lots of vegetable, many tropical fruits for desserts. Fantastic!
The Machuwasi lake next to our lodge
After lunch break there is another walk to the Machuwasi lake. No new surprise, dense greenery. Muddy ground, animals are rare to be seen.
A habitat for birds
The birds can be observed by telephoto lens.
Dobsonfly: Much harmless as it looks like
Day 3: Cold shower is not an issue anymore. We set off at 5:30 am downstream the river to a place where colourful parrots should gather together and ingest the clay of the hill. It is quite cool in the morning dawn on the river.
Our boat for the transport on the river, the left one.
Only few of the birds come and stay on top of the trees. Nothing happens. There are not too many observers. Apart from us there is another group, maximum 20 people all together, staying in a long and safe distance.
Disappointed return to the Harpy Eagle Lodge. Free afternoon for relax and swimming in the river.
Amazon Pona Lodge
Then return journey by boat to Amazon Pona Lodge for a second night there.
Day 4: After breakfast return drive to Cusco
Conclusion: The four days are fully sufficient to try out the simple way of life in the forest. We have not sighted many animals.
We are glad to be back in Cusco. Tomorrow we fly to Arequipa.