As Beijing is further in the north and so closer to the Great Wall, it used to be used as the starting point for visiting the Great Wall. There are many local companies offering different tours to different sections of the Great Wall up to several days hiking.
The Great Wall after the morning rain
Badaling is a popular section for a glimpse and picture taking including a visit to Ming Tombs. Badaling is hence very busy and overcrowded. Also, there would not be enough time to stay and walk along the wall if you join those tours.
Mutianyu in the fog
I decided to go to Mutianyu, another section, on my own by public transport. Inquiry at the tourist information in Wangfujing, you need to ask precisely what you are up to, because there are no ads or leaflets guiding you what to do.
Despite good maintenance it is quite tiring to climb up and down the steep and 2250 m long section of Mutianyu
Thankfully the lady at the counter is friendly and speaks fluently English! Take the bus no. 916 from Dongzhimen bus terminal to Huairou. About 60km and it takes you 1 hour. Fare: 12 Yuan. Get off in Huairou and there will be drivers / Taxis waiting to take you further to Mutianyu, Price: A matter of bargaining between 40 and 100 Yuan.
Plan a whole day for it. “You are not a man if you haven’t been on the Great Wall”
There are two different companies of cable car taking you from the foot of the hill on to the Wall with two different tickets. One is for the closed cabin, the other without. We bought a return ticket (100 Yuan) but walked down the hill easily on the way back. So we could ask for the return of the unused down ride (20 Yuan). Other Option: You slide all the way down for 60 Yuan.
The scam
In practical term I got to Dongzhimen at 8 am, had breakfast there, and walked down confidently to my bus no. 916. On half way there was a woman, dressed in a sort of uniform, spoke quite fluently English, apparently trustworthy, approached myself asking whether I looked for bus 916. I said to her, no thanks, I don’t need help, and kept on walking. She followed me all the way and told, don’t waste your time with 916 if you go to the Wall. Take 980, it is faster and you will be closer to it. Get off at the fourth stop. Drivers there will take you further for a fix price, and she gave me a business card of an unknown tour company.
Why not give it a go? I don’t have to pay her anything. Fare with 980 is 15 Yuan, paid to the bus driver. And I wouldn’t have to bargain to get further to the destination. While sitting in 980 the feeling of being silly overcame myself. Where am I going to land when I get off the bus? If it was not the truth, how am I getting further to Mutianyu oder back to Beijing?
After an hour drive in pouring rain I got off at the fourth bus stop as instructed. It was outside of Miyun, 20 km further from Huairou, just off the motorway in a remote area. Few shops around and a bunch of private car drivers surrounded the helpless looking tourists. One chap offered me a lift to the Great Wall for 200 Yuan one way and 400 return, although I haven’t even asked. A quick glance 5m aside I noticed a young European couple was struggling with another driver. So I walked over to them with the offering guy following me step by step. After a short introduction to each other the couple and I decided to stay and share a car together. They have been asked to pay 350 Yuan for the return drive for two. After 15 minutes our bid of 320 Yuan for all three was accepted.
Finally we arrived in Mutianyu. We gave the driver 160 Yuan and told him we are not going to drive back to Miyun with him. He tried to argue, threated to call the Police and asked for an additional 20 Yuan for each person. We remained calm, ignored him and entered the park which he could not follow in without a ticket.
The couple in their twenties, Léa and Renoir, were sister and brother from Versaille, France. They turn out to be very nice. We spent the whole lovely day together until we got back to Dongzhimen, Beijing.
At the end, it was a short exciting experience for little as 4 more Euro (23 Yuan each) which we did not let it spoil our day. From the Great Wall to Huairou, where we should have got off on the outward journey, we paid 30 Yuan each, sharing the 7-Seater with a chinese-american Family who spoke fluently Mandarin. They were charged 40 Yuan each for the same ride! And the driver told us not to tell them
Bus ticket Huairou – Dongzhimen was 12 Yuan.